The Ewe people, one of Ghana’s five major ethnic groups, carry one of West Africa’s most compelling migration stories. Their journey from ancient kingdoms to their present home in Ghana’s Volta Region is a tale of resilience, cunning, and cultural preservation that continues to resonate with heritage seekers today.
The Ancient Origins: Ketu and Oyo
According to Ewe oral traditions, their ancestral homeland traces back to Ketu, a Yoruba town in what is now the Republic of Benin, near the border with Nigeria. Some traditions also reference Old Oyo in western Nigeria as an origin point. Ketu, also called Amedzofe or Mawufe in various accounts, was a major Yoruba kingdom established by the 14th century at the latest.
In these ancient cities, the ancestors of the Ewe people lived alongside the Yoruba and the forebears of related groups including the Aja, Fon, and Ga-Dangme peoples. This shared heritage explains the linguistic and cultural connections between these West African ethnic groups.
The Journey to Tado and Notsie
Between the 11th and 15th centuries, the Ewe began migrating westward in waves. Archaeological evidence and oral traditions suggest these migrations were likely triggered by the progressive expansion of other populations, particularly the Yoruba, and various invasions and wars that made their original homeland unstable.
Their journey led them first to Tado, a settlement near the Mono River, and eventually to Notsie in central Togo. Notsie, which the Ewe people arrived at around 1500, became their most significant settlement and the last major stopping point before their final dispersal. In Ewe history, Notsie holds the same importance that Egypt holds for the Jewish people.
The Legendary Escape from Notsie
The most dramatic chapter of Ewe history centers on their escape from Notsie around 1720. Under the reign of the tyrannical King Agokoli I, the Ewe people suffered tremendously. This cruel ruler assigned impossible tasks, forcing them to build the city walls using only their bare hands and feet, mixing mud with pieces of glass, rocks, and thorns. He demanded they create ropes from clay and even ordered the killing of elders to prevent the accumulation of wisdom that might challenge his authority.
The Ewe people endured severe punishment for any disobedience until they devised a brilliant escape plan. According to the most widely told version, the women played a crucial role. While washing clothes, they repeatedly threw water against a single spot on the massive city wall, gradually softening the mud until it became possible to cut through.
On the chosen night, the Ewe people gathered under the wall with drumming and dancing, pretending to celebrate a festival. Some versions credit the legendary priest and hunter Togbi Tsali with enchanting the drums to put their oppressors to sleep. As the festivities continued, they broke through the weakened wall and escaped into the night. To confuse their pursuers, Togbi Tsali led them walking backwards, leaving footprints that appeared to be heading into Notsie rather than away from it.
The Settlement in Ghana
After escaping Notsie, the Ewe people divided into three main groups during their migration into what is now Ghana. Archaeological evidence suggests they settled in their current locations in the early 17th century, around the 1600s.
The northern group skirted the foot of the uplands, penetrating valleys and occupying parts of the hill country. They established settlements as they traveled, eventually halting at Kpando and Gbi Hohoe when they encountered Akan and Guan-speaking peoples already settled in those areas.
The middle wave founded Ho, which became a major center in northern Eweland. The southern group, made up of various sections including the Dogboawo and led by Amega Wenya, moved southward until a split occurred at Gafe. This group went on to establish numerous coastal settlements including Anlo, Klikor, Ave, Afife, and many other towns along the Volta Region.
The first major settlement after the exodus was at Tsevie in present-day Togo, from which the various Ewe groups continued to disperse. Later, other peoples from the west including the Ga from Accra, the Ane (Mina) from Elmina, and the Dangme settled near and among the Ewe communities, creating the diverse cultural landscape of the region.
The Impact of Colonial Division
By the late 19th century, European colonial powers imposed borders that split Ewe territory. Initially divided between German and British colonies, the Ewe lands were further partitioned after World War I when the League of Nations gave German-occupied areas to Britain and France as mandated territories.
Today, the Ewe people live across three countries: Ghana (approximately 6 million), Togo (approximately 3.1 million), and Benin. In Ghana, they primarily inhabit the Volta Region in the southeast, making up about 13 percent of the national population. Despite being separated by colonial borders, the Ewe people maintain remarkable cultural unity based on their shared language, traditions, and migration story.
Celebrating Heritage: The Hogbetsotso Festival
The escape from Notsie remains central to Ewe identity and is commemorated annually through the Hogbetsotso Festival, meaning “Festival of the Exodus.” Held on the first Saturday of November in Ewe towns including Anloga, Anyako, Dzodze, and Klikor in Ghana’s Volta Region, this celebration has become one of the region’s largest cultural events.
During Hogbetsotso, chiefs dress in their finest traditional regalia, and communities engage in vibrant dancing and drumming performances. The festival includes a dramatic re-enactment of the escape from Notsie, often portraying King Agokoli as a bumbling, drunken fool, transforming the painful history into a celebration of freedom and resilience.
For diaspora visitors and heritage tourists, Hogbetsotso offers an authentic opportunity to witness Ewe culture and understand the historical journey that shaped this remarkable people.
Visiting Ewe Heritage Sites in Ghana
Heritage seekers interested in Ewe history can explore several significant sites in Ghana’s Volta Region. Ho, the regional capital, serves as an excellent base for exploring northern Eweland. The town’s history traces directly to the post-Notsie migration period.
The coastal Anlo area offers insight into the southern Ewe settlements and their adaptation to maritime life. Towns like Anloga and Keta preserve important historical sites and host annual cultural festivals that bring Ewe traditions to life.
Many heritage tour operators in Ghana now include Volta Region experiences in their packages, combining visits to Ewe cultural sites with other heritage destinations. These tours often occur during festival periods, allowing visitors to participate in celebrations while learning about Ewe migration history from community elders and cultural guides.
The Ewe Cultural Legacy
Beyond their migration story, the Ewe people have contributed significantly to Ghanaian culture. They are master weavers of kente cloth, creating designs prized worldwide for quality and beauty. Their skill in copying and adapting patterns made them particularly important to Ghana’s textile industry following independence.
Ewe music and dance traditions are equally renowned. The Agahu dance, which spread from the Egun-speaking people of Benin through Ewe fishing communities, has become popular throughout West Africa. Traditional war dances like Gbedzimido, performed in communities such as Mafi-Gborkofe, preserve martial traditions while serving as cultural performances.
The Ewe maintain strong patrilineal traditions, with land ownership and political offices passing through male lineages. Lineage heads serve as priests connecting living members to their ancestors, reinforcing the cultural memory that traces back to Ketu, Notsie, and the legendary escape that brought them to Ghana.
Connecting Past and Present
For members of the African diaspora visiting Ghana, understanding Ewe migration history adds depth to the heritage experience. While the coastal castles and forts tell stories of forced migration through the slave trade, the Ewe journey represents voluntary migration driven by the search for freedom and better conditions.
Heritage tours that include both the coastal slave trade sites and Volta Region cultural experiences provide a more complete picture of Ghana’s complex history. They reveal not only the pain of the past but also the resilience, ingenuity, and cultural richness that define Ghanaian peoples.
The story of where the Ewe migrated from is ultimately a story of human determination, the preservation of identity, and the enduring power of cultural memory passed down through generations. For visitors to Ghana, it represents an opportunity to connect with living history and witness how ancient migrations continue to shape contemporary West African life.
